Viaxe gastronómica – NAVARRA – Gastronomic trip

Viaxe gastronómica: NAVARRA

Navarra é un paraíso natural, tinguida de verde, con recunchos cheos de historia e sitios de bo comer. Aquí explicareivos un pequeno itinerario para facer por Navarra, sempre facendo fincapé no aspecto gastronómico, que para iso estamos. Pasaremos por Iruña, Urdax e Lizarra, tres sitios moi fermosos e onde se pode lambonear de moitas maneiras. As propostas gastronómicas son moi distintas e para tódolos petos, sempre procurando probar pratos e produtos típicos. Comezamos a nosa viaxe gastronómica por Navarra. Imos aló!

IRUÑA – PAMPlONA

Se unimos Navarra e larpeirada o primeiro que nos vén á cabeza son os txantxigorris. Xa soa ben, non si? Os txantxigorris son un doce típico de Navarra que combina ingredientes moi distintos entre si, mais que casan moi ben.
Os seus ingredientes son: auga, sal, manteiga, torresmos, canela, fermento, sal e azucre.

E si, sabe moooi ben!!! Estes merqueinos en Totos, unha pequena tenda na mítica rúa Estafeta número 75, aínda que xa veredes que os hai en moitas tendas.
Prezo: 1 euro

En Iruña hai moito que visitar, mais o certo é que moitas das súas atraccións turísticas están relacionadas co Encerro do San Fermín. Se facedes o recorrido do encerro ao revés e chegades ata onde saen os touros, estaredes a uns 5 minutiños a pe deste restaurante.

RESTAURANTE DEVINOS IRUÑA

Dirección: Paseo Anelier 11
Comensais: 4
Prezo: 65 euros (con viño e auga)
Hora: cea (de carta, a mediodía hai menús)

PRIMEIROS

Ensalada de parrulo

A ensalada, como vedes na foto, estaba espectacular! E o xamón de parrulo e o foie estaban boísimos!

Txistorra bio de Arbizu

Xa que estamos na capital de Navarra non podía faltar un dos seus produtos máis coñecidos: a txistorra. Tiña un sabor nada graxento, intenso e suave á vez e moi boa textura. Un acerto, como non.

SEGUNDOS

Segredo ao forno con patacas panadeiras e prebe de Pedro Ximenez.

O segredo estaba bo de principio a fin. Nada graxento e nadaa seco. Nunca o vira preparado desta maneira e gustoume moito o resultado.

Xiba á grella con alioli e verduriñas.

Unha sepia xeitosa presentada toda enteira mais ben limpa por dentro. De novo, moi ciumenta, no seu punto exacto de cociñado e cun alioli moi sabedeiro.

Hamburguesa de tenreira.

Unha hamburguesa con pan de verdade rico rico e unha carne boa e ben preparada.
Como acabamos fartiños abondo, non pedimos sobremesa. Sentino ben porque me tería gustado podérvola ensinar, mais non pudo ser 😉

URDAZUBI-URDAX

Seguimos o roteiro e imos cara Zugarramurdi, alí podemos ver a cova onde se supón que se reunían unhas mulleres acusadas posteriormente de seren meigas e facer akelarres. A historia, coma sempre, non remata ben e moitas destas mulleres acabaron queimadas vivas (e mortas) pola Inquisición. [Un resumo rápido para non alongar moito o artigo] De Zugarramurdi, baixamos a Urdabizu-Urdax e visitamos as súas covas. Hai visitas guiadas e as covas son incribles. E agora imos ao lío!

RESTAURANTE LA KOSKA

Dirección: Calle de San Salvador 3 (Urdax)
Comensais: 4
Prezo: 117 euros (con auga, viño e cafés)
Hora: mediodía á carta

PRMEIROS

Pementos do piquillo refogados con allo e perixel

Nunca probara os pementos de piquillo desta maneira, normalmente sempre os vexo recheos. Viñan quentiños, cun suave sabor a allo e estaban moooi saborosos!!!

Piperrada

Aquí xa tocou preguntar, pois non sabiamos o que era. Ven sendo como unha especie de pisto con pemento verde, pemento vermello, cebola e o prebe de tomate. Levaba tamén xamón salgado crocante e un ovo fritido. Unha combinación de éxito seguro e, por suposto, moi ben preparada.

SEGUNDOS

Cordeiro asado

Dicirvos que neste restaurante teñen unha grella no exterior onde fan a carne. Ademais, dentro teñen unha chimenea moi xeitosa para poñerse ao quente se fóra fai frío. Todo isto para dicirvos que o cordeiro estaba delicioso. Tiña unha boa capiña de graxa que facía que por dentro estivera suave e nada seco ou chascado. Viña acompañado dunhas pataquiñas e pementos tipo Padrón.

Paella

Este prato foi o que máis louvanzas recibiu. O arroz estaba no seu punto, con moito sabor e o marisco non estaba nada mal para estar en terra adento. Non quedou nin medio grao de arroz, con iso digo todo.

Pescada á Koskera con ameixas e gambas.

A pescada estaba moi boa, non tanto o prebe, que pecaba de sabor a fariña e de saber algo sosiño de máis. O peixe moi ben, boa textura e un bo anaco. As ameixas normais e as gambas moooi saborosas. En xeral, ben.

SOBREMESAS

Pain perdu

A proximidade de Urdax a Francia notouse nesta saborosísima sobremesa. O pain perdu é unha torrada con pan de brioche. Sabor e textura espectaculares. Tería papado 2 ou 3 máis.

Callada con mel

Unha das mellores calladas que probei na miña vida. Caseira, caseira. E iso nótase. Unha textura hiper suave, case como unha mousse e un sabor incrible! O mel viña nun cunquiño aparte, que sempre se agradece.

Copa La Koska

Levaba nata, flan e ensalada de froitas. Unha macedonia caseira, tapada cun flan de ovo caseiro e moita nata (esta si que non era caseira!) Estaba moi boa, mais só apta para moi lambóns 😉

LIZARRA – ESTELLA

Lizarra (ou Estella) é un lugar pequeno e moi lambón. Comezaremos coas lambonadas típicas e despois falareivos do mellor restaurante do roteiro, que deixo para o final para que vos deixe co mellor sabor de boca.

Rocas del Puy de Estella

Nada máis entrar na praza da vila veremos unha pastelaría con moitas lambonadas: Bombones Torres. Unha delas son as famosas “rocas” de Estella, que veñen sendo chocolate con abelás (e de seguro que algún outro ingrediente segredo). Iso si, a pesares da súa sinxeleza, non poden estar máis boas!!!

Hainas de chocolate negro, con leite e branco. Eu devezo polas de chocolate branco, xa sabedes que é a miña debilidade.

Kaiku bombón

Este bombonciño pequeno ten forma de kaiku. O kaiku é un cunco con asa que se emprega para recoller o leite de vaca e facer callada. De aí que o bombón teña esta forma e un círculo branco por riba. O recheo, segundo pon, é de callada, mais ten un sabor e unha textura que se asemellan máis ó leite condensado. Sexa como for, está de vicio!

Despois de probar estas larpeiradas, toca ir papar, va que si?

TALLER GASTRONÓMICO CASANELLAS

Dirección: Espoz y Mina 3
Comensais: 4
Prezo: 176 euros
Hora: mediodía

Cando entras pola porta deste restaurante, o primeiro que chama a atención é que a cociña non está separada do comedor. Todo, absolutamente todo o que preparan fano á vista de tódolos comensais. Como xa vistes no nome, non é un restaurante, senón un taller gastronómico. Alí fan cursos de case todo o que poidades imaxinar: cociña navarra, sobremesas, sushi… esa paixón por ensinar, fai que o proceso de elaboración cobre importancia tamén cando vas comer alí.
De martes a venres teñen carta cun prezo de media duns 30 euros e o sábado (que foi cando fomos nós) un menú degustación de 40 euros.
Cando chegas, tes na mesa a carta cos segundos e as sobremesas. E tamén a carta de viños.
Despois chega Ainhoa e explícache os entrantes, que veñen escollidos por eles, e tamén fai unha breve explicación sobre os segundos e as sobremesas, que xa as escolles dende o principio.

Na mesa había un anaco de manteiga con sésamo negro e escamas de sal para acompañar o pan caseiro con fariña de espelta.

PRIMEIROS

Espárragos asados sobre cama de “ajoblanco” con arandos acaramelados, améndoas e Idiazabal afumado.

Os espárragos frescos e de moita calidade, notouse que estabamos na súa terra e ademais, de tempada. O “ajoblanco” moi suaviño, sen ter un excesivo sabor a allo, senón máis ben a améndoa. O Idiazabal aportaba un sabor máis intenso e os arandos un toque doce. Todo xunto era unha explosión de sabor na boca. Incrible!!!

Ramen de peixe afumado con alga wakame, portobello e canelóns de marisco.

Simplemente espectacular!!! Eu son moi de ramen, iso é ben certo, mais dos 4 que estabamos, só 2 de nós o probaramos antes e a pesares de ser un prato de sabor moi intenso e particular, encantounos a todos.

SEGUNDOS

Segredo de porco mariñado estilo barbacoa com parmentiere de pataca, puré de mazá verde e agridoce de laranxa.

Mimadriña cando probei o parmentiere! Que sabor! E si, tamén o segredo e o toque doce da froita. Todo, todiño! Non podía parar de papar e relamber todo 🙂

Bacallau gratinado con all i olli de mazá e mel

O bacallau no seu punto perfecto, cunha fina capa de prebe gratinado, unhas lascas de pataca violeta e unha base de pataca. Impresionante.

Lombos de rodaballo con pataca glaseada, piperrada e manteiga de abelás

Xa vedes que os anacos eran xeitosos e o acompañamento quedáballe moi ben. De novo, todo no seu punto e moi, moi, moi saboroso.

Magret de parrulo ao curry vermello sobre arroz con ananás e cacahuete

Este prato era un chisco picante, mais isto dáballe un punto moi bo ao prato. O parrulo estaba moi tenro e o arroz con piña e cacahuetes dáballe un toque exótico, orixinal e que casaba moi ben.

SOBREMESAS

E chegaron as sobremesas!!! A miña parte favorita. Sempre teño certo medo porque acostumo a ser bastante esixente con esta parte e xa me pasou máis dunha vez que comín moi ben, mais quedei algo chafada cando chegaron as lambonadas. Xa vos adianto que neste caso non foi así. As sobremesas son bastante tradicionais, mais todas cun toque que as fai especiais, e todo cun produto moi coidado, que é algo que se nota ben, sobre todo na sobremesa.

Crumble de arando azul e mazá con xeado de iogur

Esta sobremesa viña morna, e así contrastaba coa friaxe do xeado. Unha combinación que sempre triunfa e, desta vez, non foi menos 🙂 O crumble moi suaviño, dando máis importancia á froita.

Torta de chocolate e chile afumado

Esta torta gustou moito pola súa orixinalidade. O sabor era intenso a chocolate negro, mais cando o sabor a chocolate xa desaparecera, comezaba a notarse un lixeiro sabor picante do chile afumado. Moi orixinal, cunha textura tipo mousse e un sirope de chocolate saborosísimo.

Torta de mousse de chocolate con prebe de laranxa amarga

Esta torta de mousse era puro sabor, unha capa de mousse de chocolate e outra de biscoito de chocolate. Estas dúas capas tan doces había que rebaixalas co sabor do prebe de laranxa amarga. Chocolate e laranxa sempre quedan ben e o contraste doce-amargo tamén. Todo un acerto.

Nunca probara o ruibarbo e por iso pedín esta sobremesa. Ainhoa xa nos comentou antes que ten un sabor como a mazá e a verdade é que este pastel estaba delicioso! A masa estaba moi crocante e levaba unha capa de azucre torrado, que me pareceu moi orixinal. O sabor da torta recordoume ao da Bakewell Tart, así que gocei de cada un dos bocados. De novo, o xeado boísimo e perfecto para acompañar a torta algo morna. De dez!

En resumo, se tendes a oportunidade de ir a Lizarra – Estella, non o dubidedes e aproveitade para visitar este taller gastronómico. [O restaurante ten unhas 5 mesas, polo que convén reservar]

Agardo que este itinerario gastronómico por Navarra vos guste moito e se probades calquera destas suxestións, non dubidedes en contarmo, e se precisades información que non sexa puramente gastronómica, aquí estou, á vosa disposición! 😀

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NAVARRA: Gastronomic trip

Navarra is a natural paradise, full of green landscapes, history and a very good and interesting gastronomy. Here I will tell you about a little route around Navarra, paying special attention to what we’re interested in: food. We will go to Iruña (Pamplona), Urdax and Lizarra (Estella): three beautiful places in which you can try typical products and dishes which are very tasty! So, let’s go!

IRUÑA – PAMPlONA

If we think about sweet treats in Navarra, the first thing that comes to my mind is txantxigorris. Txantxigorris are a typical sweet which combines savoury and sweet ingredients which you may never put together, however the result is amazing!
The ingredients are: water, salt, lard, pork rind, cinnamon, leavening, salt and sugar.

And yes, it tastes really well! I bought these ones in Totos, a little shop in the so famous Estafeta street (#75), but you can find them in many shops.

In Iruña there are a lot of interesting places to visit, being the main ones those related to the running of the bulls. If you perform the actual itinerary, you will be just 5 minutes away from this restaurant I will now talk to you about.

DEVINOS IRUÑA RESTAURANT

Address: Paseo Anelier 11
Servings: 4
Price: 65 euros (with water and wine)
Meal: Dinner (a la carte or menus at lunch)

STARTERS

Duck salad

This salad, as you can see in the picture, looks incredible! Foie and duck ham was super tasty and I would totally recommend it!

BIO Txistorra from Arbizu

As we are in the capital city of Navarra, we had to try one of its most typical products: txistorra. It was flavourful and intense, but not oily at all.

MAIN DISHES

Oven-roasted pork fillet with potatoes and Pedro Ximenez sauce

This pork fillet was super delicious, juicy and tender! I always tried it fried, but never roasted in the oven and I was very surprised with the result, which came out to be extremely tasty!

Grilled cuttlefish with allioli and veggies

The cuttlefish tasted good, with a soft garlic and parsley flavour. Allioli and veggies were the perfect side dish.

Beef burger

A hamburger with real bread and a very well prepared beef burger.
As our bellies were already full, we didn’t ask for dessert. I wanted to, but I couldn’t, so you can order them and tell me all about it!

URDAZUBI-URDAX

We continue our gastronomic itinerary in Zugarramurdi, where we can see a cave in which some years ago some women were accused of witchcraft. The thing is that this did not end well, and some of these women were burnt (some alive) by the Inquisition. [A quick summary because this is not a history blog, but you should read all about it.] Then, after visiting this place, you can go to Urdabizu-Urdax and visit its caves. The visits are guided and the caves are spectacular! And now, we go to the point!

LA KOSKA RESTAURANT

Address: Calle de San Salvador 3 (Urdax)
Servings: 4
Price: 117 euros (with water, wine and coffee)
Meal: Lunch a la carte

STARTERS

Piquillo peppers sautéed with garlic and parsley

Another typical product of Navarra: piquillo peppers. I have never tried them this way because I have always tasted them stuffed, but the truth is that they’re delicious. They were hot, with a smooth garlic flavour.

Piperrada

With this one we had to ask. There are some dishes which already ring the bell, but this wasn’t the case. It’s like ratatouille but with red and green bell pepper, onion and tomato. This came with a fried egg and crunchy serrano ham. Yumy!

MAIN DISHES

Roasted lamb

In this restaurant they have an outer barbecue in which they prepare some dishes. Besides, inside he restaurant there’s a fireplace, so if you can pick a place near it. Let’s go back to the point, lamb was excellent.

Paella

This dish was the one which received the majority of the positive comments, full of flavour, rice well cooked and seafood was quite good, taking into account we were really far from the sea 😉 They ate it all, not even a single rice grain left!

Hake Koskera style with shrimps and clams

Hake was very good, not so much the sauce, which was bland and with a flour flavour which is not desirable. However, fish was well cooked and tasty. Clams average and shrimps exquisite.
DESSERTS

Pain perdu

As Urdax is so near France, they knew how to prepare pain perdu, so flavoursome!!! The only negative thing I can say is that I would have needed 2 or 3 more!

Curd with honey

And another typical dish from Navarra: cuajada (curd). This one was amazing!!! Its texture was mousse-like and the flavour was out-of-this-world! I have never tried a homemade curd and it really makes a difference, so please if you have the chance, do it! Honey came in a little pot, so you could pour the amount you wanted.

La Koska Cup

This cup had Chantilly, fruit salad and crème caramel. It was super tasty but only ask for it if you feel like eating a lot of sweet!!!

LIZARRA – ESTELLA

Lizarra (or Estella) is a small place but they do like eating! We will start with the typical sweet treats and then we will continue with the best restaurant we’ve tried in Navarra. You know, we keep the best for last!

Rocks from Estella

When we enter into the main town square, the first thing we see is a beautiful bakery in which we can buy these delicious rocks, which are, in the end, chocolate with hazelnuts. But oh my God! They taste so good!!! I’m sure there’s some secret ingredient around! 😉

You can have them with dark, milk or white chocolate. I love the white chocolate ones, but you know me, I’m really fond of white chocolate.

Kaiku chocolates

This small chocolate has a kaiku form. A kaiku is a jar which is used to prepare the curd. That’s why it has this form and a small white circle on top, representing the curd. The filling, though it was supposed to be curd, it tasted more like condensed milk. Yum, yum, anyway.

Time to eat!!!

TALLER GASTRONÓMICO CASANELLAS

Address: Espoz y Mina 3
Servings: 4
Price: 176 euros
Meal: Lunch tasting menu

As soon as you come through the door of this restaurant, the first thing that calls your attention is the fact that there’s no physical separation between the kitchen and the dining room. Every single thing is prepare right in front of your eyes.
From Tuesday to Friday, they have a menu which costs around 30 euros and on Saturdays (the day we went) they have a special tasting menu which costs 40 euros.
When you sit down, you have a menu with the main dishes, the desserts and the wine menu.
Then, Ainhoa comes and explains you the starters, which are already fixed, and makes a brief explanation of the main dishes and the desserts, which you choose from the very beginning.

On the table, there is some butter with black sesame seeds and Maldon salt to have with some homemade bread with spelt flour.
Na mesa había un anaco de manteiga con sésamo negro e escamas de sal para acompañar o pan caseiro con fariña de espelta

STARTERS

Roasted asparagus with “ajoblanco” with caramelized blueberries, almonds and smoked Idiazabal

Asparagus were fresh and high quality, which is nothing strange as they are in season and Navarra is the place to have them. Ajoblanco was really soft, no strong garlic flavour and Idiazabal cheese gave it a more intense flavour together with the sweetness of blueberries. All together was an explosion of flavour in the mouth! Unbelievable!!!

Smoked fish ramen with wakame, portobello and seafood cannelloni.

Spectacular!!! I love ramen and of course I have tried them before, but 2 of us haven’t and despite its strong flavour, they really loved it!

MAIN DISHES

Barbecue style pork fillet with potato parmentiere, apple puree and bittersweet orange

OMG! That parmentiere was amazing!!! What a flavour! Pork fillet and fruit as well, for sure! I loved every single ingredient! I couldn’t stop eating!!! 🙂

Grated cod with apple and honey allioli

Cod was perfect, with a thin layer of grated allioli, violet potato and a potato base. Yummy!

Turbot fillets with glazed potatoes, piperada and hazelnuts butter

Again, everything perfect, well cooked and perfectly presented.

Duck magret with red curry with rice, pineapple and peanuts

This dish was a Little bit spicy. Duck meat was juicy and tender, and rice with pineapple and peanut gave it an exotic touch which all together made a very good combination.

DESSERT

And the time has arrived! I love desserts time! It’s my super favourite part. I must confess I usually feel afraid when I ask for the dessert, because I am quite exigent and I usually feel disappointed. However, this was not the case this time. They were quite traditional but with a special twist which made them different.

Crumble with blueberries, apple and yogurt ice-cream

This dessert came out warm, with the ice-cream melting on top. This combination is a winner and crumble was not excessive, giving more prominence to the fruit.

Chocolate and smoked chilli cake

This cake was surprising. The texture was like a mousse, super smooth. The flavour was intense, and you felt the dark chocolate all over your mouth. Then, when the chocolate flavour was over, you start to feel the smoked chilli. Very creative and delicious!

Chocolate mousse cake with bitter orange sauce

This cake had two layers, one like a mousse, and another like a chocolate sponge cake. Both were very sweet, so the contrast with the bitter orange sauce was perfect!

Strawberries and rhubarb pie with vanilla ice-cream

I have never tasted rhubarb before and that’s why I needed to try this dessert. Ainhoa has already told us that it tastes like apple and the truth is that this pie was delicious! The dough was really crunchy and it had some caramelized sugar on top. It was warm, so perfect with the vanilla ice-cream.
This restaurant has only 5 tables, so don’t forget to book a table before going.

All in all, if you have the opportunity of visiting this place, please go! To this, and to all! And not only to these restaurants, to the places as well, of course!

I hope that you enjoy this gastronomic trip around Navarra and that you actually have the opportunity of travelling to these places and tell me all about it! And if you need any other information related to these places (apart from the foodie one), here I am! 😀

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